Outboard Motor

Laing's Outboards Newsletter March 2003
Outboard Motor | Thursday, 04 December 2008

There's good news to report on retail boat sales. Final figures confirm that the fourth quarter of 2002 was a strong one for dealers after a succession of negative ones. Fiberglass boat sales rose by 4.9% in the fourth quarter, and aluminum boats had strong sales as well. Here are the top leaders in aluminum boat sales for 2002:

Make Units Sold Market Share

Alumacraft 9,255 7.4

Crestliner 7,903 6.4

Smokercraft 4,749 3.8

Bennington 4,040 3.3

SERVICE DEPARTMENT

A few issues back, we started discussing the carburetor. We will now continue with the subject. We previously determined whether or not the carb was the reason your motor would not run, and now we will learn how to correct the problem.

The most important thing to keep in mind when attacking carburetor problems, is that in most cases, carburetors do not go bad, they just get dirty. Many outboard motors sit idle for long periods of time, often for years at a time. Any gas left in the system will turn to varnish and gum up the system. Another common problem is rust particles in the carb, caused by using a rusty gas tank.

Step one is to go to your local marine dealer and purchase a carburetor rebuilding kit. Then remove the carb from the motor, making a note of how the linkages are attached. Next, using a clean uncluttered workbench, take apart the carb starting with separating the bowl from the main body of the carburetor. You will most likely smell the stale gas, and see the residue in the bottom of the bowl. Since the high speed jet is usually located at the bottom of the bowl, you can see how this residue can easily affect the operation of the outboard. Remove the float and the inlet needle and seat. Remove the high and low speed needles, as well as old packings and any plastic or rubber parts. You need to then soak the parts in carburetor cleaner. Don't use the stuff in the spray can or lacquer thinner. They will not dissolve the varnish. Go to the local auto parts store and purchase a gallon of the cleaner that is meant for immersing the carb in. Follow the instructions on the can, as well as taking necessary safety precautions. After soaking the carb parts long enough to dissolve any residue, rinse the parts with solvent and blow out with compressed air. Then reassemble according to the instructions in the carburetor rebuilding kit. Install the carb on the motor. Next month we will talk about how to adjust the carburetor and linkages.

The first Mercury outboard debuted in 1939, claiming many industry firsts. According to a 1939 dealer newsletter, among these firsts were:

*Full-feathered automatically-stable steering.

*One-piece driveshaft housing enclosing exhaust passage,

water line and driveshaft.

*Streamlined engine cowlings.

*Vacuum exhaust system.

*External reed valves with T-shaped manifolds

Continuing with 1947 firsts:

*Splash deflector on driveshaft housing.

*"Uni-Cast" one-piece gearcase.

*One-piece die-cast twin cylinder block with integral water

jacket, cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

*Forged aluminum pistons.

*Multiple disc slip clutch propeller.

*Single-line suction type remote fuel supply system.

*Four-cylinder, alternate firing, two-cycle engine

*Built-in synchronized remote throttle control.

I'm sure many people could dispute these industry "firsts". One that comes to mind is the 1950 16 HP Scott, which had a single-line suction remote fuel system.

We will finish with the West Bend Elgins. Last month we covered through 1955

Beginning in 1960, Elgins were mostly made by Scott. We will cover the Scott Elgins next month.

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