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Welcome to the November 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
INDUSTRY NEWS There is not much happening this time of year, so we will skip ahead to the service department. SERVICE DEPARTMENT Today a few thoughts on the most misunderstood part of an older outboard motor: THE CARBURETOR. Whenever a motor is not running properly, more often than not, people automatically blame the carburetor. This is not necessarily the case. First, test for compression, then spark, as we discussed in previous issues. If both of these test OK, we can look at the carb. First question to ask is: is the carb getting gas into it? If your motor has a gas tank on top, disconnect the fuel line going into the carb, put the end of the hose into a container to catch the gas, and then open the fuel shut off valve. You should have a steady flow of gas coming out the hose. If all you get is a drip, or no gas at all, then most likely the filter in the tank is plugged up. The filter is frequently attached to the hose fitting on the bottom of the tank. Unscrew the fitting, and the filter should come with it. If it is a wire mesh screen, you can clean it. If it is a ceramic filter, many times there is nothing you can do with it. In than case, remove the filter from the fitting and install a small in-line filter in the hose from the tank to the carb. If your motor takes a remote tank, hook up the gas line to the motor and squeeze the primer bulb. Look carefully for any signs of leaks. If gas is leaking out anywhere on your hose, that means that air could be leaking in. Fix the hose as needed and squeeze again. If you listen carefully, you can often hear the carb "drinking" the gas. If you are sure there is gas in the carb, try to start the motor. At this time, it may be useful to review the proper use of the choke. Many people do not choke the motor properly, which makes it hard to start. Assuming you are starting a cold motor that you have not tried to start recently, pull the choke out all the way and advance the throttle to the neutral stop. Pull the starter rope until you get a response from the motor. For the next pull, push the choke in and pull the rope again. It will probably start on this pull. Remember, you will not flood a cold motor. If your motor will not start after about 10 pulls or about 10 seconds of cranking, pull out a spark plug and see if there is any trace of gas on it. If it is dry, it is time to open up the carburetor. Continued next month. HISTORICAL This month's motor is Corsair: In 1948 Scott-Atwater began producing a line of private-label outboards for the Corsair Outboard Motor Co, of Minneapolis, MN. The outboards were distributed by both Skelly Oil Co. and Pure Oil Co. The line was dropped in 1957. Model no. Serial no. HP 1949 4921 49211001 4 4927 49271001 5 4923 49231001 7.5 1950 5020 50201001 3.6 5021 50211001 4 5027 50271001 5 5023 50231001 7.5 1951 5020 50201001 3.6 5021 50211001 4 5027 50271001 5 5023 50231001 7.5 5028 50281001 10 1952 5027 27251001 5 5023 23251001 7.5 5028 28251001 10 1953 2735 27351001 5 2335 23351001 7.5 2835 28351001 10 1954 2745 27451001 5 2345 23451001 7.5 2845 28451001 10 2945 29451001 16 1955 2755 27551001 5 2355 23551001 7.5 2855 28551001 10 2955 29551001 16 1956 2765 27651001 5 2365 23651001 7.5 2865 28651001 10 2665 26651001 30 Next month Elgin Also, next month, will be the story of the first outboard ever made. It is the story of the Waterman, made in 1905, as told by Mr. Cameron Waterman himself at a 1950 Mercury dealer meeting. Source: Laing's Outboards |
Laing's Outboards Newsletter January 2003 
