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Welcome to the February 2002 issue of Outboard News, an electronic newsletter for the outboard enthusiast.
UPCOMING EVENTS There will be an old outboard motor swap meet on February 9, 2002. It will be held at our shop located at 5 Ward Rd, N. Tonawanda NY 14120 starting at 9 AM. It is being sponsored by the local chapter of the Antique Outboard Motor Club. There will be old motors and parts for sale and trade. Bring whatever you have to swap or sell. There will be a large indoor test tank available to run motors. INDUSTRY NEWS There is not much news this time of year. Local boat shows are continuing, and sales are reported to be very strong. Johnson and Evinrude are showing a strong resurgence with aggressive sales and marketing. The takeover by Bombardier should prove to be a positive move for the industry in general. SERVICE DEPARTMENT Last month we discussed how to check for spark to the spark plugs. This month we will learn how to pull the flywheel to correct any problems in the ignition system. Pulling the flywheel is sometimes the most difficult part of the repair job. First step is getting to the flywheel. Remove the shrouds, recoil, or gas tank from the top of the motor, if it has any. You must then hold the flywheel while removing the flywheel nut with the proper size socket on the end of a breaker bar. The easiest way to hold the flywheel is with a strap wrench. You can see a picture of one on the helpful products of our website. Next step is to pull the flywheel. There are several types of pullers available. The type we use most often on small motors is the simple type of gear puller with two arms that grab the edges of the flywheel from above, with a long screw that you tighten on the crankshaft. There are some motors that this will not work on, or if the flywheel is stuck, too much pressure applied to the screw can damage the flywheel. In these cases, use the type of puller similar to a steering wheel puller with three screws that you screw into threaded holes in the top of the flywheel. With either puller, after tightening the center screw against the crankshaft, rap on the top of the screw with a hammer, and the flywheel should come right off. It is often a good idea to leave the flywheel nut loosely on the crankshaft, just below the top of the crankshaft. On some motors, like the small Scott-Atwaters, you can damage the threads by tightening the puller screw. You may run into some outboards that this procedure will not work on, for some reason or another. In this case call or email for further directions. The arm type puller can be purchased from any auto parts store, or at Sears. The screw type puller can be purchased from the same sources, or the outboard manufactures make a very nice one. We sell the Mercury puller. You may order this puller or the strap wrench from our website. Next month we will discuss what to with the ignition system once you get the flywheel off. HISTORICAL INFO This month's motor is Champion. Year model HP 1935 A Std Single 3.2 1936 1B Std Single 3.2 1936 2B Lite Twin 4.4 1936 3B Senior Twin 7.6 1937 S1C Std Single 2.9 1937 D1C Deluxe Single 3.2 1937 S2C Std Lite Twin 3.4 1937 D2C Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4 1937 D3C Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6 1937 R1C Red Flash Single 3.2 1938 S1D Std Single 2.9 1938 D1D Deluxe Single 3.2 1938 S2D Std Lite Twin 3.4 1938 D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4 1938 D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6 1939 S1E Std Single 2.9 1939 D1E Deluxe Single 3.2 1939 D2D Deluxe Lite Twin 4.4 1939 D3D Deluxe Senior Twin 6.6 1940 S1F Kingfisher Single 3.2 1940 D1F Challenger Single 3.2 1940 S2F Fish Hawk Lite Twin 3.4 1940 D2F Play Boy Lite Twin 5.5 1940 B1F Blue Streak Single 3.2 1941 S1G Kingfisher Single 3.0 1941 D1G Challenger Single 3.0 1941 S4G400 Std Single 3.6 1941 D4G400 Deluxe Single 3.6 1941 2G Viking Twin 5.3 1941 3G Electra Twin 6.1 1941 M1G Ensign Single 3.0 1941 M4G Commodore Single 3.6 1941 M2G Admiral Twin 5.3 1942 1H Super Single 3.9 1942 2H Viking Twin 5.8 1946 1J Standard Single 4.2 1946 2J Deluxe Single 4.2 1947 1J Standard Single 4.2 1947 2J Deluxe Single 4.2 1948 1K Standard Single 4.2 1948 2K Deluxe Single 4.2 1948 4K Twin 7.9 1949 1K 4.2 1949 2K 4.2 1949 4K 7.9 1949 4KS Special Racer 7.9 1950 1L 4.2 1950 2K 4.2 1950 2L-HD 4.2 1950 4K 7.9 1950 4L-HD 7.9 1950 4LS Special Racer 7.9 1951 1L 4.2 1951 2K 4.2 1951 2l-HD 4.2 1951 4K 7.9 1951 4L 8.5 1951 4L-HD 8.5 1951 4L-S Hot Rod Special 8.5 1952 1L 4.2 1952 2K 4.2 1952 2L-HD 4.2 1952 4L 8.5 1952 4L-HD 8.5 1952 4L-S 1X Hot Rod Special 8.5 1953 2M 3.5 1953 3M-GS Shift 5.0 1953 4M-GS Shift 7.5 1953 4M-HD 7.5 1953 6M-GS Shift 15 1953 6M-HD 15 1953 4M-HR ClassJU Hot Rod 7.5 1953 5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated 1953 6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod 15 1954 2MM 3.5 1954 3M-GS Shift 5.0 1954 4M-GS Shift 7.5 1954 4M-HD 7.5 1954 6M-GS Shift 14 1954 6M-HD 15 1954 4M-HR Class JU Hot Rod not rated 1954 4M-HR Midget not rated 1954 5M-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated 1954 6M-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated 1955 3MM-GS Shift 5.5 1955 4MM-GS Shift 7.5 1955 6MM-GS Shift 16.5 1955 6MS-GS Shift 16.5 1955 4MM-HR Class AU Hot Rod not rated 1955 6MM-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated 1956 2N 4.2 1956 3N-S 6 1956 4N-D 7.8 1956 6N-D 16.5 1956 6N-MS 16.5 1956 6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated 1957-8 2N 4.2 1957-8 3N-S 6 1957-8 4N-D 7.8 1957-8 6N-D 16.5 1957-8 6N-MS 16.5 1957-8 T6N-MS Tandem 33 consisted of twin 16.5's 1957-8 6N-HR Class BU Hot Rod not rated. Next Month Chris Craft Source: Laing's Outboards |
Laing's Outboard Newsletter April 2002 
